March 20, 2025

Neiafu Bay Vava’u, Kingdom of Tonga, 18 39.973 S / 173 58.919W

Perhaps it is time for an update?  We are still in the Kingdom of Tonga, Vava’u to be precise.  In the last post we talked about how we came to our decision to stay here for cyclone season.  So far, this has turned out to be a good decision.  The weather has not  been perfect, knock on wood, we have not had even a near miss with a cyclone.  There has been one north and a few east, which is fine by me.  We have had our fair share of rain.  When I mean rain, well…they measure that in inches per hour around here.  It is incredible to see.  But on the bright side it keeps the water tanks full and the temperature down.  All this time has left with time for projects.

It’s a new car!!

Boats require a ton of maintenance and yes money to keep going.  We recently took delivery of our new car (dinghy).  The old one was simply not big enough for our needs and it was trashed.  So we ordered a new one for True Kit in New Zealand and shipped it by boat.  She might be a little to big for our needs, but I like her so far.  Time will tell if we made the right choice.  No time to dwell on that we have plenty to do.

Fighting the Rust

Last season our trusty dive compressor started showing some typical salt air wear and tear.  Last time Tami was I the US she brought back a rebuild kit for the Honda motor that powers the compressor.  So I recently started that rebuild.  She was full of rust and corrosion.  After a lot of cleaning, scraping and painting she is back in her glory, although I have not started it yet.  I was finally able to find the special oil the compressor takes (the oil has to be suitable for human breathing).  You guessed it, that came from New Zealand as well.  Starting to see a pattern here?  But in the end it will be worth it as we can get back to diving on our terms.

Making Tartaruga work for us

Top load box refrigeration has been a problem for us.  It means every time you cook, everything has to come out because for some reason what you need int eh frig is always at the bottom.  Starting to believe in the Gnoems our Mexican friends believe in, another story for another time.  So, like most men when Tami leaves, I feel compelled to tear something apart.  So I removed the box refrigerator and replaced it with two small commercial refrigerators.  I think the space inside is the same, but some are much easier to organize.  Over time, it has become clear that having two of them is not really necessary, so I will sell one to a local resort and save some deck space.  Additionally, the next thing is I will recess the entire unit into some worthless storage space.  This will open an area where we can build new storage that makes more sense.

There has been a going toilet saga here on Tartaruga.  As you may remember our boat was built in France, then sold to an Italian guy who eventually sailed her to Tahiti.  So the toilet is fancy, electric with all the bells and whistles but I can not get parts for it.  To set the stage, we have only one head, so if it is down this means a bucket or dinghy into land and use a toilet there.  So after our boat yard time it stopped working, seized bearing.  So I order a new one, one that I could source parts all over the world.  This order was placed, air freight, October 31, 2024.  To make a very long story short I recently received that toilet, 4 months later.  A lesson on who not to do business with.  But the bigger issue for Tami and me is that we do not like to discharge our waste into the local waters.  So, we found a product called Electro Scan.  This is a treatment system that treats our yucky smelly stuff such that when it is discharged it is 99.999% free of any pathogens or things that can hurt the environment or people.  So soon a new pooper and cleaner, more on that later.

More exciting toys

There are many other things we have been working on.  We took delivery of a new sail from Rolly Task.  This is called a Cruising Code C, pictures to follow.  Painting is an going challenge, not the work but the getting the paint.  So, we will order that from New Zealand.  There has been some engine repairs, left over issues from the lighten strike we think.  Lots of little things.  But it is not all work.

We have met some great people here in Tonga, after all they call it the friendly islands.  Some are “palangis” (white people) that have relocated here and of course the locals.  Most have been really great, you always have curmudgeons and we stay away from them.  It is law in Tonga that no one is to make business transactions on Sunday, a decree of the King.  This makes a great day for BBQ’s and hanging out with friends.  It is nice to feel like part of a community.  Until next time…

On a mooring in Vava’u, Kingdom of Tonga – 18 66.032S 173 98.303W

Departure

We left Niuatoputapu on September 10, 2024, at the break of dawn. There were three monohulls and us on a southern passage to Vava’u. The forecast was for eastern winds at 15-20 knots with a mild swell of 2 meters at 7 seconds. They call it a forecast for a reason. Here is the captain’s update for our journey.

After we exited the pass, we were met with rather nasty seas and the wind pretty much on par. We had to motor for a bit into the wind to clear the island so we could turn south and sail on. We set the first reef on the main and deployed the full genoa, making 7-8 knots of boat speed. Then a strange sight appeared as I gazed up to see how the trim looked on the mainsail.

Some Excitement

The mainsail had a huge pocket and was protruding through the stack pack. This is not normal! I went forward and noticed the reefing line was loose, a perfect explanation. So, I proceeded to tighten it, and wow, did it ever pull so easily. So easily, suddenly I had the end of the line in my hands. Damn it – the line broke. We quickly acted and installed the second reef. But this was not a long-term solution.

Let’s Go

We quickly found ourselves in the 4-5 knot range. We needed to be at a 6-knot average to make Vava’u by the next morning. So, we did something we have not done on Tartaruga – deployed a full mainsail. Problem solved, we were now making 8-10 knots and were working to slow the boat. This proved to be an exercise in futility. Then, of course, the wind decided to crank up to 25kn. Everything I tried seemed to speed the boat up. We decided that we would just ride this out.

All through the night, I worked at trimming the mainsail and bleeding off some speed. Finally, at around 2 AM, I had some success – a steady 7-8 knots. This was plenty to meet our sail plan to arrive in Vava’u in the morning.

Sissy Relaxes

As dawn broke, we could easily see Vava’u. What a beautiful sight! I was very happy we made it without breaking anything else, including Tami and me. Sissy was none too happy, but as we entered the lee of the island, the winds dropped, the swell dropped, and so did Sissy for some much-needed sleep.

In the end, we averaged 6.7 knots and arrived in 27 hours, beyond our former record. We stowed the sails and cranked up the motors to navigate the pass into the pass into the harbor, hoping to find a mooring as the anchoring is very deep in most locations.

We were lucky as three boats passed us while we were entering the harbor. We found a mooring quite easily. Tami is an expert at grabbing the line and hooking us up. Just like that, we were done and ready for sleep. This is the location where we will spend cyclone season, the location we will haul the boat and get some much-needed repairs completed.

The place we will get to know Tonga and its people – we can hardly wait.

At Anchor Nuiatoputapu, Tonga 15 56.335S 173 46.045

For this update we are departing Apia Samoa and sailing to Tonga. Before departure there is a fair bit of work we do, in preparation to sail in the open ocean.

Blue and Pink Jobs

We both have our own areas, Tami calls them “blue jobs” and “pink jobs.” In short, the blue jobs check and test every system on the boat and their redundant pieces. For example, we have two autopilot drive units, and both are checked for functionality. Particular attention is paid to known problems we have not yet been able to update. Tartaruga has two leaky seals on her sail drives (these are the same as outdrives on an inboard/outboard system.) This is letting salt water into the drive, but no lubricant is being emitted into the sea, more updates on this later. Everything was either good or fixed, so we are ready to go. Next comes check out.

Checking Out

Every time we leave a country we must check out. This typically means we stop by immigration for passport stamps, customs for our country clearance forms and the local port authority for any fees they might want to collect for, such as anchoring. It usually doesn’t take long to be honest, just part of traveling this way. Samoa is no exception and we powered through quickly just before departure.

Time to go

We left the harbor at around 1200hrs on August 28, 2024 for a planned 36-hour sail to Tonga. The first part of the journey had us in the lee of Samoa, so we really had no wind to speak of and had to use our motors. While the flat seas are always welcome, quite frankly we can sail much faster than we can motor. The motor boat adventure didn’t last long.

Once we passed in between the islands of Upolu and Savai’i, we found ourselves in the wind and we could cut the motors and set sail south to Tonga. The winds forecast was for 18kn from the east and for the most part it is what we sailed in. The swell was another matter. Although it was only 6ft-7ft, the peaks (we call the period) were only 6 seconds apart and smashing against the side of Tartaruga. We get regular updates on the weather and sea state both online and from our weather router. She handled it like a champ, delivering an average speed of 6kn for the 180nm trip. At one point the wind picked up suddenly to 24kn and she showed us 12kn of boat speed. We are getting better at tuning the sails on her. At this point our typical sailing speeds are at the very top of what Animal Cracker was delivering, under similar conditions – this is a good update. Just as the sun setting was setting on the 29th – land ho.

We made eye sight of a dormant volcano, Tafahi, about 25 miles away. We knew Tafahi was only about 4nm north of our destination, Nuiatoputapu Tonga. This also meant we would be arriving after dark. While entering a reef pass in the dark is not normally something we would ever attempt, we were prepared for this – at least on paper. We had tracks from our friends Warren and Erica, the YouTube super duo of WE Sail. Additionally, we knew from their entry that the lights were operational so in theory this made the night entry possible.

Night Entry

While most people might think this is a no brainer because they come from a country that has many channel marks and lights, that is not always the case. The idea is at the very far end of the pass is a set of range lights. On your chart there is typically a center line to the pass marked. So you approach the center line of the chart, via gps, and then align the two lights at the far end and voila you are pointed straight down the center of the pass. Well not so fast, as we approached, in the pitch black night, I was expecting the range lights to be white lights, we finally figured out they were red and not only red they are flashing red lights just like the lights that mark the port side of the reef! So we need to update our thinking.

After a couple circles at the entry I was able to see the difference in the red lights. The range lights were flashing much faster and the two appeared very close together. So we began, inching very slowly towards to pass. I’m at the helm using the lights and the tracks we have while Tami is inside watching the gps position of the boat on a premarked path. Slowly and carefully we approach a point we can no longer turn around, no room. We feel the seas calm, we know we are inside the reef pass. Meter by meter we move forward, Tami calling out our alignment via GPS and I watching the lights. Finally we make it to the last channel mark – we made it.

At this point we make a quick turn and head for the anchoring location, again under the cloak of darkness. We find an open space, at a good depth, and set the anchor. Perfect, it sets the first try. We set our anchor alarms that will alert us if the boat drags. We made it, not something we want to make a habit of but it is good to know we can work together and get the job done. At least it wasn’t raining.

We are in Tonga, country number 7.