Sailing Life

  • Discover why we chose Tonga for Cyclone Season

    Cyclone season is the time of year cruisers must be the most vigilant.  It is not safe to sail around in zones that are prone to having cyclones, hurricanes or typhoons.  So, what do we do?  There are many decisions to make depending on where you are in the world.  We are currently cruising in the South Pacific. Pretty much any place in the tropical zone, 10 to 30 degrees off the equator, can be a place that has cyclones.  Each year we must plan where we need to be November through the following May and work our cruising plan backwards from there. Here is how we came to choosing to stay in Vava’u Tonga for cyclone season.

    Cyclone Seaon in the Southern Hemisphere

    Cyclone Season lasts from November to the following May in the southern hemisphere.  It is exactly the opposite of hurricane season in the northern hemisphere, the danger to boats remains the same.  The conditions are also the same.  The water temperature must be at least 80F at the surface and down to about 150ft.  Of course you need a low pressure system around sea level.  Then there are some other factors like vertical wind shear, thunderstorms and continuous source of warm moist air.  With this knowledge one atmospheric event that I follow very closely is the location and strength of the Madden-Julian Oscillation (MJO).

    The Madden-Julian Oscillation

    The Madden-Julian Oscillation is a large scale disturbance.  It is a wave of energy that drives many of the factors that can produce a cyclone.  In fact, I have read that in nearly all case in French Polynesia the MJO was present during cyclones.  This system rotates the earth around the equator, every 30-60 days.  It drives warms moist air and produces violent thunderstorms and powerful low-pressure systems.  I use this DTN website to see the actual local of the MJO and the forecast for the next several weeks.  In particular I like this view as I can follow both the active and inactive regions and see the strength of the active phase.  The darker the green the strong the activity.  So with all that said how did we decide to stay on Vava’u Tonga for Cyclone season?

    This is an MJO forecast example.

    Challenging the history

    I did an analysis of the historical weather as well as what is available in Vava’u in terms of moorings, haul out facilities, etc.  First the weather.  I am a big user of Open CPN.  In fact after our last lightning strike we use Open CPN is our primary navigation system.  One of the plug-ins offered in Open CPN is climatology.  The plugin allows you to overlay various types of weather data of a specific place on the chart for a given period of time.  In this case, I wanted to see cyclones.  Here is what the cyclone tracks look like overlayed around Vava’u Tonga, without any filters.

    This is a historical view of cyclone paths from Fiji to Tonga starting 1949 to present

    I know what you are thinking, geez each of those lines are cyclones, are you crazy?  Well yes they are and the date range is from 1949 to present.  You might note that Vava’u seems to be in a bit of a pocket and if I filter on only La Nina – the map changes dramatically.  See below

    This is a view of cyclone paths, since 1949, that is filtered to only show during La Nina periods.

    There is one very important data point to understand about cyclones in the Southern Hemisphere, they name their storms at very low wind speeds – 34KN.  It is not until you reach CAT 3 here that the wind speeds match a CAT 1 in the US.  On this map, the light blue is 40kn and the green is 60.  Not even CAT 1.  If you remember, Tami and I sat through more than 60KN of wind at anchor in French Poly last year.  Does this mean there will not be a cyclone, NO!  What it means is in a La Nina year there are very few.  This is more than 70 years of data.  You can also see there are many more in Fiji and also a few red lines, more than 100KN of wind – not cool.  But more goes into it.

    Local facilities

    Here in Vava’u they have good facilities in the event we need to use them.  First, the Boat Yard Vava’u can haul our boat out if we choose to.  They have a way to secure the boat to the ground and we would take shelter in a local hotel or something like that.  They also offer hurricane safe moorings.  I have personally spoken to people that have been on the mooring in high winds, and they are more concerned about something hitting them that got loose in the harbor then they were about the mooring breaking.  The service these mooring often and in my view, they are well maintained.  As of this writing there are only a view boats that have selected to stay here, so I have no competition for moorings our being hauled out.  Whereas in Fiji, the yards are full, people pay to get a spot in the mangroves all of course based on availability and there are hundreds of boats – hundreds.

    The final factor, for cyclone season, is Sissy!  She can not be imported into Fiji. New Zealand is possible but would cost thousands of dollars.  Our Sissy girl is getting old, 14 years now, and a rough sail south might not be very good for her health.  Here in Tonga, she is imported and is free to go wherever we go on land.  The dogs are not too aggressive, so it works very well.  Another small factor is the locals speak English, so it makes you stay comfortable and our chances of participating in local festivals and activities increase. 

    Staying in Vava’u – Simply Amazing

    In the end, I do expect we will see some weather.  How strong, who knows.  We have more than 30 beautiful anchorages we can explore, with one eye on the MJO.  However, these anchorages are all within 20 miles of the main harbor.  This harbor found in 1781 by Spanish explorer Francisco Mourelle de la Rua.  He named it Puerto de Refugio – The Port of Refuge.  We have this paradise all to ourselves with a port sailors have used for safe harbor for more tahn 200 years.

    One final note, I am not a prefessional meteorligist. I am sailor that analysis what is avaialbe to me to make the safest decision for our vessel.


  • How we make money while Cruising Around the World

    a red line showing the cruising route of Sailing Yacht Tartauga

    We get asked this all the time. I think it’s partially because when people look at us, we are not exactly retirement age, so they are curious about how we fund our cruising. Most of the time, I jokingly tell them we are running from the law, and that’s all they need to know – haha (not true, by the way). But if you look around the internet, you’ll find many people wanting to cut the lines and try a different lifestyle. One full of adventure, challenge, travel, and perhaps much closer to nature. This is pretty much our life. We are not funded via a trust fund (I wish) nor did we win the lottery (second wish), or inherit money. We did, however, come to this lifestyle with some money and some skills. Here is how we make money while cruising around the world.

    The Source

    The primary way we make money is via the US Stock market. I know, it’s volatile, dangerous, a crapshoot at best. I get this a lot. Years ago, I searched for a solution to take some of the risk out because if you think about it, I just need access to the internet, and I can make money – in theory. A friend of mine on Red Rover shared with me a solution he found, so I looked into it. It is a group of investors, led by Pat and Lorin, called Wander Financial. I know there are lots of options out there for trading, but this one suited me.

    We ran into Pat and Ali from Wander Financial in Fakarava (June 2023)

    This fits around our life

    First, both Pat and Lorin live a lifestyle like we do. Pat travels with his family full-time, for like the last 20 years. Lorin is the same, although he primarily lives on land. I didn’t have to buy some proprietary software to join; this approach can be problematic with slow internet. Their process uses WhatsApp, chat rooms, and email to update the group on trade opportunities. These are things I can access quite easily from just about any device, so I am not tied down to my boat. The killer draw for me was they have a process to follow because, quite frankly, I didn’t know anything about trading. So, a process put together by people with decades of experience, that is easy to follow and, more importantly, works for me – am I making money.

    Wander Options Navigator

    This process I am referring to is called the Wander Options Navigator or WON for short. It goes something like this: Pat and Lorin have provided a list of stocks to review each day; consistency is key here. I run through this list every day at the same time. What I am looking for, via my Trading View Charts, is the presence of an indicator called, you guessed it, the WON indicator. This information, along with the other trends embedded into the chart, tells me whether to buy or not. Now, I can’t tell you everything because some of this is proprietary to Pat and Lorin, their life’s work. There are other details like how large the trades are, what platforms are used, how to mitigate risk in each trade, etc. Wander Financial provides all of this and tons of other educational articles and videos. But here is what matters most to me: does it make money for me? The answer is YES.

    Do we make money

    For Tami and me, we normally cover the average cost of cruising each month. How much is this for us? Between $3K-$4K USD. Often, very often, we actually add money to our savings account. Every so often, we have a big month, then we go to the boatyard – kidding (not really). Does it cost money to join? Yes. I find I pay for that very quickly. So much so that I have been with Wander Financial for nearly 4 years.

    This is our profit for September 2024 – $4,556.

    I could go on and on, but for sure, you are getting bored at this point, so let me wrap this up. Every day, over my morning coffee, I spend no more than an hour reviewing the list, making trades, and managing my risk. This is how I do it; the beauty is you have the freedom to build your own process around theirs. Is it fool proof? No! I had some issues starting out that, quite frankly, were mine. Not reading carefully, not knowing how the online tools worked, or frankly, not paying attention. In the end, I would not be recommending them if it wasn’t something we use and depend on. We wouldn’t recommend them if they were not real people, living like we do and having success. You are not going to be the next Warren Buffet; that is not the goal. The goal is to live life to the fullest and make some money so you can do that on your terms.

    Get Started Today

    Pat and Lorin have been kind enough to offer an incentive to take a leap of faith like I did. Use this referral, and you will get $200 off your first year! That’s a good deal, trust me.

    I know you have tons of questions; ask them below. Let me answer them as fully and transparently as I can below.


  • While exploring Niuatoputapu we came across four Tongan children dressed traditionally for church
    Local children in their church attire.

    We decided to embark on a hike around Niuatoputapu, accompanied by our fellow sailboat friends. After securing our dinghies at the town dock with the help of local kids, we set off. Exploring Niuatoputapu through the hike took us all the way around the island, and despite the cloudy weather, it was perfect for an adventurous trek.

    Niuatoputapu

    On this island, feral pigs seem to outnumber the dogs. Alongside them, sheep, goats, chickens, cows, and horses all play their part in the island’s ecosystem. Everything here serves a purpose. Surprisingly, even though there are only around 800 people living on Niuatoputapu, they manage to have cars—though not every family owns one. The island covers 6.2 square miles, with its highest point reaching 515 feet above sea level.

    The local Tongans welcomed us with open arms, offering friendly waves and greetings of “Malo e Lelei.” The children were delightful, always saying “Hi” and “Bye” with infectious giggles. Approximately forty boats arrive here each year, and the ferry makes its monthly appearance, bringing essential supplies. The locals happily traded items with us, and we even managed to get fresh eggs from a lady who keeps chickens on the island.

    The Pig Roast

    During our walk, we stumbled upon a group of men turning pigs over a fire, while women bustled about preparing food. Tongan, the primary language, posed a challenge, but we navigated it with smiles. Then, a woman invited us to a roast at 3 pm—an annual feast that raises money for the church. We felt privileged to be included.

    Men roasting pigs on Nuiatoputapu
    The men roasting the pigs.

    After bidding our farewells, we discovered a local watering hole—a perfect spot to cool off. Stripping down, we plunged into the crystal-clear water. Fish of all sizes darted around, some even nibbling playfully. Refreshed from our swim, we returned to our dinghies to prepare for the feast.

    While exploring Niuatoputapu we found a fresh water spring
    Fresh water spring

    Following Tradition

    Dressed in our finest attire, the women wore Lava Lava—a wrap that tie around the waist and flows down to the ankles—paired with shirts. The men sported collared shirts, some also donning Lava Lava. As we arrived, the church service was wrapping up, allowing us to peek inside and listen to the beautiful singing.

    The local women guided us to a social hall, indicating where to sit. Music played, followed by a prayer, and then it was time to feast! The spread was impressive: individual salads, side dishes, seafood, and chicken—all leading up to the main attraction: the roasted pigs. The local women encouraged us to eat heartily, and their generosity extended to sending us home with leftovers. Throughout our travels, we’ve experienced many fascinating things, but being welcomed into this community stands out as one of our favorites. The warmth of the locals has truly touched our hearts. Kakai Faka’ofo’ofa—beautiful people indeed!

    This is Tui and her daughters.


  • Hot spots in Samoa

    If your sailing or travel adventure take you to Samoa, here is a quick and easy list of hot spots we think you will love. We only had one week, so you will be busy. Because of this short visit, we only had time to see one island, Upolu. This list is not complete as there are many other fun things we simply did not have time for such as beach fales, turtles swims and snorkeling sites.

    Apia

    Apia is the captial of Samoa. It is a thriving city with all the things you can possibly need. We were able to walk to all our destinations in the city. After two years in the South Pacific, we finally found a coffee shop.

    Waterfalls

    Samoa’s geology is volcanic in nature. It lends itself well to a number of different features around the island, including amazing waterfalls. There are too many to list but you can find them all here.

    Savai Giant Clam Sancutary

    giant clam

    The sancutary is a great stop while touring the island. Bring your mask, snorkel and fins and swim out to see these rare sea creatures.

    Papaseea Sliding Rock

    Another opportunity to get wet on a hot day. Sliding Rock is a favorite of locals and is also close to Apia. Bring your adventurous spirint, swimming gear and a towel.

    Samoan Cultural Village

    Located in Apia, directly behind the Visitor Center. For a small fee you can enjoy learning about the Samoan Culture – Fa’a Samoan. Dancing, signing, weaving, food and more. We had a really good time.

    Robert Louis Stevenson Mueseum

    Within walking distance, or a short taxi ride from the marina, is the actual home of Robert Louis Stevenson. The Scottish poet and author lived out his last days on the island of Samoa. Publishing novels such as Tresure Island, Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde and volumes of other novels, essay’s and poems, this was one of our favorite hot spots.

    Pacific Coast Walk

    A walk along an lava flow lends it self to breathtaking views. This walk is off the beaten path, be sure you car has a bit of ground clearance. In our opinion you will want a good pair of shoes, flip flops might be difficult on this hike.

    To-Sua Ocean Trench

    The Ocean Trench is a very popular hot spot in Samoa, both for locals and tourist. Climb down into this prestine salt water pool. If you fancy a long breath hold, you can try to swim from the pool to the ocean via a submerged cave.


  • Staying Fit While Cruising: A Seafarer’s Guide Workouts

    woman hiking in Moorea
    Hiking in Moorea

    One of my favorite things to do when arriving in a new country is to scout out gyms or exercise classes. Whether it’s aerobics, yoga, weightlifting, step classes, or even Zumba, I’m all in. And if you throw a TIBATA class into the mix, I’m over the moon! When it comes to staying fit, the best part is that you don’t need to speak the local language—just slap a big old smile on your face and show up.

    Now, I get it. Not everyone considers breaking a sweat their idea of a good time, especially when you’re navigating life aboard a boat. But for me, staying fit through these fitness adventures brings me closer to the community. There’s something about everyone sweating it out together, encouraging one another, that transcends language barriers.

    Making It Work Aboard

    Living on a boat doesn’t mean sacrificing your fitness routine. I’ve got a few tricks up my sleeve. When the sea is your gym, weights and resistance bands become your trusty companions. I often follow YouTube workout videos—I’m partial to Growwithjo—or create my own circuit training sessions. But let’s be honest: there’s nothing quite like having room to stretch out in an actual gym for staying fit. (And yes, I’m waiting for someone to shout, “So much more room for activities!”—bonus points if you recognize the movie reference!)

    Embrace Imperfection

    Now, let’s talk about those workouts. Sometimes, you’ll fumble through them, especially if the instructions are in a language you’re not fluent in. But guess what? Nobody’s perfect. So have fun with the locals while staying fit! They’ll laugh right alongside you. A genuine smile and a positive attitude go a long way—even if you’re trying to keep up with a Zumba class while stumbling over unfamiliar words.

    Find a Gym

    During my visit to Apia in Samoa, I stumbled upon JP Fitness Center. For just $10 Tala a day, I had access to the gym. And if I wanted to join a fitness class, it was anywhere from $5 to $10 Tala, depending on the session. The gym was conveniently located within walking distance from the marina—an added bonus for staying fit enthusiasts like me.

    Now, here’s where it gets interesting. I took a class with Lina: Zumba step. Now, I’ve done Zumba, and I used to be a step aerobics instructor, but combining the two? Lina absolutely kicked our butts! Yet it was also a fantastic opportunity to meet new friends. As they say, “Friends that sweat together stay fit together.”

    So, fellow cruisers, keep that smile on your face, embrace the imperfect moments, and find those hidden gyms wherever your adventures take you. Staying fit will make your body—and your newfound friends—thank you! 💪🏋️‍♀️🌊


    Riding bikes in Bora Bora

  • Discovering the Giant Clams of Samoa

    giant clam

    If you’re looking for a unique and unforgettable experience in Samoa, visiting the giant clams should be at the top of your list. Nestled in the heart of the South Pacific, Samoa offers a stunning marine paradise where you can get up close and personal with these incredible creatures.

    A Hidden Gem in Savaia

    One of the best places to see giant clams in Samoa is the Giant Clam Sanctuary in Savaia, located on the island of Upolu. This sanctuary is a village marine protected area, ensuring the clams are safe and thriving. For a small fee, you can slip on your mask, snorkel, and flippers and dive into the crystal-clear waters to explore the vibrant clam beds.

    An Underwater Wonderland

    As you snorkel through the sanctuary, you’ll be amazed by the sheer size and beauty of the giant clams. These magnificent bivalves can grow up to 120 cm (47 inches) across and weigh over 200 kilograms (440 pounds). The clams come in a variety of colors and patterns, thanks to the symbiotic algae living in their tissues. It’s like swimming through an underwater rainbow!

    giant clam

    A Safe and Enjoyable Experience

    The sanctuary is well-maintained and offers facilities like changing rooms and showers3. It’s best to visit during high tide when the clams are more visible and the water is clearer. Remember to be gentle and avoid touching the clams, as they can close their shells quickly if disturbed.

    A Lesson in Conservation

    Visiting the Giant Clam Sanctuary is not just about the thrill of seeing these amazing creatures; it’s also an opportunity to learn about marine conservation. The sanctuary plays a crucial role in protecting the giant clams and their habitat, ensuring future generations can enjoy this natural wonder.

    The orginal clam bed used to grow the sanctuary

    Plan Your Visit

    Getting to the Giant Clam Sanctuary is easy. It’s located on Upolu’s south coast, and you can hire snorkeling gear if you don’t have your own. The local village runs the site, and the friendly staff are always ready to help and provide information.

    Final Thoughts

    Swimming with the giant clams in Samoa is an experience you’ll never forget. It’s a chance to connect with nature, learn about marine life, and support conservation efforts. So, if you find yourself in Samoa, don’t miss out on this incredible adventure.

    a women swimming with the giantclams
    Tami swimming near the giant clams

  • The Abridged History of Samoa

    A picture of Tamia and Scott at a beautiful waterfall.
    Papapapaita Fall – click the image for more details

    For this update, we are still in Apia Samoa exploring and waiting for just the right weather window to proceed to Tonga. We have been enjoying access to a car, thanks to Arthur, to see the sites all around the island – waterfalls, caves, trenches, and more. Soon our focus will turn to preparation for departure, and there is much to do on that front. That is in the future, we try hard to be in the present, so I thought it was a good time to learn a little more about Samoa. I spent some time reading about the history of this amazing place. Here is what I learned.

    The Quick History of Samoa

    Samoa is a beautiful group of islands in the South Pacific with a history that’s as colorful as its scenery. People first settled here around 3,500 years ago, coming from places like Tonga and Fiji. These early settlers were amazing navigators and boatbuilders, and they created a culture that’s deeply connected to the ocean.

    Early Settlements and Culture

    The first people to live in Samoa arrived between 2,900 and 3,500 years ago. They brought with them their skills in farming and sailing. Samoan society was all about village life, with chiefs (called matai) leading the way. They grew crops like yams, taro, breadfruit, bananas, sugarcane, and coconuts. This early history of the region is fascinating.

    European Contact and Colonization

    European explorers showed up in the early 1700s. In 1768, a French explorer named Louis-Antoine de Bougainville called the islands the Navigator Islands. Missionaries came in the 1800s and introduced Christianity, which changed a lot of things. Eventually, foreign powers started fighting over the islands, and they were split into German Samoa and American Samoa in the late 1800s.

    Path to Independence

    After World War I, New Zealand took over what used to be German Samoa and called it the Western Samoa Trust Territory. Samoa became the first Pacific Island nation to gain independence in 1962, and in 1997, it was renamed simply “Samoa.” Today, Samoa is a proud and independent country with a rich cultural heritage and a unique history.

    Modern Samoa

    Today, Samoa is a mix of old traditions and modern influences. The people still celebrate their culture with traditional ceremonies, dance, and music. If you visit Samoa, you can explore historical sites, enjoy the natural beauty, and experience the warm hospitality of the locals. We think understanding a locations history is essential to fully appreciate its modern-day marvels.

    Final Thoughts

    The Samoan people are truly wonderful. We had the opportunity to experience this many times in both American Samoa and Samoa. Whether it was a friendly conversation on the bus, directions, a ride to a trailhead, or help with a flat tire – always friendly – always interested – always smiling. We also learned that you are six times more likely to play in the NFL if you are Samoan! In American Samoa, they have the highest military enlistment rate, per capita, than any other state or US territory!


  • Local Hospitality

    Chief Jared, Scott and Uncle Bob are removing the flat tire from the rental car on the side of the beach road

    During our travels we always say the “people make the place.” This is exactly what happened in Samoa.  We had rented a car from a local friend here in Samoa, Arthur.  The first time we met him was in American Samoa.  Lovely man with a quick smile and always a story to tell, embodying the warm local hospitality of the region.  We decided to head out and explore with a couple of our friends. Driving on the right side of the road, and car, was an adventure! We visited waterfalls, swam in a sink hole (ocean trench), did a coastal lava flow hike, and had street food with locals.  Once we left To Sua Ocean Trench we decided to go all the way around the island.

    The long way

    It was like driving through the country.  We dodged dogs, people, and wild pigs.  We had just come around the far eastern corner of the island when the car began to vibrate.  Scott found a place to pull over and I hopped out to check the tires.  Sure enough, the right-side front tire was flat.  Now the adventure begins……

    We found the spare tire underneath the vehicle and found all the gear to change the tire. The guys began to loosen the lug nuts, and realized the tool was damaged. We were worried that this process would strip the lug nuts.  We were able to loosen all the lug nuts except for one temperamental one.  Suddenly a local appeared to help. 

    Here comes the calvary

    This local man called a friend, and he appeared to help too, we will call him Bob.  Bob left and came back with multiple lug wrenches, all of which did not fit. Of course, when things like this happen the mobile service is spotty.  My phone only had 3G plus one bar.  Our friend Jan fared a bit better, so we called Arthur to let him know of our predicament. He wanted to know our location, hmm not sure.  Bob, who spoke very little english, was able to talk to Arthur in their native Samoan language.  Once back on the phone Arthur told us not to worry, that local people will take care of us.

    Scott left with Bob in his truck and returned with yet another Samoan.  His name was Chief Jared, yes he is the chief of this island village!  They would not let our guys help. They made many trips to various homes to find this precarious lug wrench too, one that fit.  Finally, they found the right socket and were able to get the tire free.  The spare had seen better days but was better than the other alternative. 

    Fa’a Samoa – The Samoan Way

    Chief Jared was worried about the spare and wanted to call us on our way to make sure we made it back to Apia, about 30 miles. If we had any problems, Chief Jared would pick us up.  The sun had set by now, but now it was time for the next adventure.  Driving on a donut spare, at night on the other side of the car and road.   During our drive the phone rang from both Arthur and Chief Jared to see how we were doing. The generosity of the villagers is unparallel.  When Scott went with Bob he asked where he was from.  After some small talk Bob said to Scott, “who knew my Samoan life would cross paths with your American life today.”  Turns out Bob is actaully Uncel Bob, Chief Jared’s uncle – Matagofie pei!! Beautiful life.


  • Top Places for Cruisers in America Samoa

    Everywhere we stop there are local businesses that tend to be more helpful to us than others.  We don’t live in a house, so we need some unique items to keep us going.  When your cruising takes you to America Samoa, and it should, these are some places we recommend you check out. In addition to these businesses, don’t miss the top sites in America Samoa for a complete experience.

    A beautiful image of Pago Pago harbor from high atop Mt Alva.  You see the harbor with puffy clouds and the amazing blue water of the Pacific Ocean

    Boat Stuff

    Mee Won Commercial Fishing Store – If you’re looking for something for your boat, we recommend going to Mee Won.  If they do not have it, they will know who might.  From Pago Pago, take the bus to “Leone.” Tell the bus driver where you are going, the first time, because by the time you see the sign they will be passing it.

    Niel’s Ace Hardware – This is a local home hardware store just like ACE all over the world.  They have a ton of stuff there but what we found interesting was plumbing, electrical (wire), cleaning supplies, oils, and stainless items.  Most of the time when Mee Won doesn’t have it, they will send you to Ace.  Take the local bus to “Leone” go past Mee Won, you can’t miss it on the right.

    Car Quest – This is an American brand auto parts store.  They are also a Caterpillar dealer, so you can get a fair amount of diesel parts there.  We found this to be the best place to get marine batteries as well.  Mee Won has a Chinese brand of batteries.  Honestly, I have never owned that brand, so I can’t say good or bad.  Take the local bus to “Tafuna” and get off at the second traffic circle and turn left.

    Local Activities and Hikes

    A panoramic view of the facility from the ocean.  This is a beautiful structure made of local materials by local artisans.

    Tisa’s Bare Foot Bar – Every Wednesday Tisa hosts a traditional meal cooked in a Umu, right onsite.  You need to make a reservation ahead of time and the cost, at the time, was $65 USD per person and well worth it.  Additionally, if you are looking for a place to swim, snorkel and/or hang out on a beautiful beach, Tisa’s can accommodate this as well.  Super cool place with an awesome vibe.

    National Park of America Samoa – Did you know that this is the most southern National Park in the US National Park system?  If you are in America Samoa, you need to stop by and check out some of the sites.  To ensure you spend your time wisely, we recommend visiting the National Park Visitor Center, located in Pago Pago.  The wonderful young ladies who work there can help you plan your trip.

    NOAA America Samoa Observatory – We did not make it to this spot.  However, we spoke with many people that did.  The short story is the NOAA has four of these incredibly special observatories and one of them is on America Samoa.  You must make an appointment for the tour, but we hear it is worth it.

    Blunts Point Battery – We love hiking, this is one that is walking distance from the anchorage.  If you find the laundry mat, the trail head is just behind it on the left.  Once on the top of the ridge you will find old WW II gun placements.

    America Samoa Cable Car Memorial – America Samoa had an incredibly unique feature in the 60s and 70s- a cable car that stretched all the way across the harbor. However, in 1980 there was a terrible accident. This short hike takes you to the lower end of the cable car and represents a good way to stretch your legs as it is a steep, but short, climb to the memorial.

    Tauese PF Sunia Ocean Center – This is a great stop to learn all about the ocean and its conservation around America Samoa. They offer displays and on certain days of the week they show films inside a super cool auditorium. This is a short walk from the anchorage and a nice way to spend some time inside when it rains. Did we mention it rains a lot in Pago Pago?

    America Samoa Public Buses – This the best and most entertaining way to get around America Samoa. For $1, sometimes a little more depending on the distance, you can get anywhere on the island. Most of the places we have mentioned here you will take the “Tufuna” or “Leone” bus. But there is also a “Seahawks” bus that will take you to the furthest point west. If you are not sure, just ask. Pro tip, the names on the front of the buses are the villages they are going too which you can look up on Google Maps. Or Samoan’s are super freindly and happy to help you find your way – so ask someone. We met some really amazing people on our bus rides – you will too.

    Sadies Thompson Inn – Straight acros the street from the marina is this little gem. They have a full bar with a pool table! Also on site is the fanciest restaurant on island, check out their menu, you will see what we mean.

    Two Dollar Beach – This is another great place to hang out when the sun is shining and you need to get wet.

    Provisioning

    Cost U Less– This place is amazing, a site for soar eyes that have had a tough time provisioning.  Cost U Less is a small version of Costco, a US brand warehouse style retail store.  “Buy in Bulk and Save.”  You can be the judge of that.  However, we do recommend that you know the Bio Security requirements of the countries you will make landfall not too much further down the road. We would hate to hear you had all your pork chops confiscated. Take the local bus to “Tafuna” and stay on it for a while.

    TSM MartThe Commander of Tartaruga deemed this place the best place in Samoa to get perishables.  It also has an excellent selection of grocery items, make sure you take your bags.  Easy enough to get there, just take the local bus to “Tafuna.” Just past the first traffic circle you will see it on your right.

    Shipping

    United States Post Office Pago Pago – Next to provisioning most cruisers come to America Samoa because they need somethng shipped from the US. As the Soggy Paws compendium points out the US Post Office in America Samoa recevies US Priority shipments rather quickly. However, there is a caveat to that. As per local employees, if during the sorting process at a postal facility, the machine thinks there is a lithium battery or “could” be a lithium battery then the package is removed from air travel and put in a container. That means shipping by boat and it takes two months – or MORE. You will not know this has happened because this information is not in tracking, but the local US Post office can see it in their system. Here is our advice. If you’re buying electronics ship it to a freind in the US. Then have them take the item to a place that can ship US Priority Mail directly to you, in Pago Pago. The difference here is that Amazon doesn’t describe what is in the package, however a person will have too becase the package is being shipped “apo/fpo”. We did this once and our package arrived very quickly, actually faster than any Amazon package.


  • Lightning Strike – Our First anchorage aboard Tartaruga

    The feeling of terror

    First came the sound. The kind that makes your heart skip a beat, launching you into action while every fiber of your being is paralyzed with terror. You know what’s coming next. It’s deafening, louder than any rock concert or auto race I’ve ever attended.

    Then comes the light. So blinding you can’t keep your eyes open. It’s like the largest camera flash just went off right in your face. The kind of light you can feel the heat from, raising the hair on your arms—and everywhere else. It brings with it a distinct taste, the taste of pennies. This lasts only milliseconds, but the result is devastating.

    What began as a celebration of our transition to our new boat ended in a catastrophic lightning strike. A bolt struck our VHF antenna, towering several feet above the top of our mast. I know this because, as these sensations played out, I was making my way to the salon to help Tami load as many electronic devices into the oven as possible. I looked up through the deck port light and watched, ever so briefly, the Finger of God strike our mast. As horrifying as that was, it only got worse.

    Panic – Are we sinking?

    In that brief moment, the light brought darkness. I ran up the stairs to find Tami on the floor, shocked while holding the oven handle. We lay on the floor, in total darkness, as the storm that came out of nowhere, with no warning, continued to unleash bolt after bolt all around us. My mind was racing. I thought the strike had to exit the boat somewhere—please don’t let it be the hull. But there was no way to check as the storm raged on for what seemed like an hour, but was only minutes.

    The next sound we heard was our buddy boat on the handheld radio I didn’t even realize I was holding, let alone had turned on. “Hey man, I think you guys took a direct hit. Are you okay?” “Yes, we’re both alive and very shaken up. The boat has totally lost power, and I have no idea if we’re sinking.” I first peered over the side to see if the bilge pumps were pumping water out, especially the side with the earth ground—a large copper ingot grounding the entire boat. No water, but then again, there’s no power, and who knows if they’re even operational anymore. We frantically ran through both hulls with our flashlights, confirming no water was entering the living areas. This meant we were either extremely lucky or the watertight bulkheads were working, but we had no idea how much time that would buy us.

    We needed the motors, just in case, but what if the water was covering the motors and we turned the key? I know from experience that this can be catastrophic, so I turned the key to see if the panels would light up. Our first win—the panels survived, meaning the start batteries were working. But we needed some light.

    What about the lights

    As I moved around the boat, it felt like I was walking on shards of glass, but there was no glass. I located my multimeter and started testing circuits. Nothing, no voltage—again and again. I finally got to the batteries, our beloved Battleborn lithium batteries. They all showed voltage, the correct voltage for the last state of charge—they appeared to have survived as well—but still no power. I quickly realized the battery cutoff switch had been damaged, and luckily, we had a spare switch.

    After replacing the switch, we confirmed power to the panels, and the LED ceiling lights came on—win number two. That’s when we realized the shards on the floors were actually pieces of switches, fuses, and LEDs the strike had blown to pieces as it barreled through our home. If we weren’t overwhelmed by the actual event, the amount of damage would have pushed us over the edge.The Damage

    The Damage

    The damage was incredible. We lost every piece of our navigation package—chart plotter, control heads, anemometer, radar—everything, even the wiring. Anything that touched the wiring in the mast was destroyed. The inverter charger I had just installed—toast. All the navigation lights and deck lights—gone. To make a long list short, everything would have to be replaced. A cruiser’s worst nightmare come true.

    The list of things that survived, beyond Tami and me, was equally long. We had our health, and the dogs survived. Poor Tessie, who had recently gone blind, could only listen to the screams of her master—a scream I never want to hear again. The boat engines did start. There weren’t any exit holes in the hulls of the boat. It will take time, but we will get her fixed up and move on. Nothing in this life comes easy. Was this perhaps Neptune’s test for us as we just took ownership of Tartaruga? Whatever the case, I wouldn’t wish that experience on anyone.