Blue Water Mariners

Let's Go!

Home » Uncategorized

We are a couple who took a leap of faith, sold all our land possessions, and bought a sailboat. Our goal is to live more deliberately and sustainably while continuously traveling around our beautiful planet. Join us here for inspiration, practical tips and tricks, and direct engagement with us to make your dream lifestyle a reality. Discover sustainable living, sailing lifestyle, travel tips, and eco-friendly travel ideas to inspire your journey.

Uncategorized

  • Did you know this about Yachting in Tonga?

    By

    Scott Birdzell

    on

    Most yachts come to Tonga, specifically Vava’u, because it is a natural stop along the westward path to Fiji and beyond.  Depending on the timing Tonga might also be a vessels launch point sailing south to New Zealand.  Did you know there are some very good reasons to consider Tonga for longer term cruising plans?  Months instead of weeks or even the entire cyclone season. Here is one for ya!

    No Duty or Taxes

    Did you know that “Yachts in Transient,” in Tonga, you are not subject to import duties or taxes?  If you are in French Polynesia, you know that importing anything for your yacht is very expensive, the import duties are off the charts.  Yes, I am aware you can smuggle things through the airport, but that has a cost also.  Here in Tonga, those fees are zero – that’s right a big goose egg, nada, nothing.  You will pay a processing fee, to customs, of about $21 TOP.  This is not even $10 USD.  This includes your smuggle boat guests.  All they have to do is show your boats registration and there will be no problem.  But wait, what about the shipping?

    DHL or FEDEX ?

    This can be expensive to be honest.  If you choose to use DHL or Fedex, your bill will be quite high.  There are things to know about each one.  DHL does not have a presence in Vava’u, whereas Fedex does.  Because DHL doesn’t have a presence in Vava’u your goods will clear customs on the main island.  After customs clearance, normally takes a couple days, they will put your package either on the next ferry or airfreight to Vava’u.  The payment is easy as you can go to a local Vava’u bank and simply deposit the fees into their account.  I have personally used DHL and it works just fine, no issues.  Fedex, on the other hand, does have a presence in Vava’u so you can send your package directly and it clears customs in Vava’u.  I have also used Fedex with no issues.  Just remember no matter what the website says there is no such thing as overnight shipping to Tonga.  Plan on your package taking a couple weeks to arrive.

    Cutting Cost

    Another option is sending your package is by ship.  There are reputable freight forwarders that specialize in sending goods to Tonga.  The freight charges are a fraction of the cost of DHL and FEDEX, however it will take a month or slightly more to receive your goods.  So, if you plan to stay a while (and you should), this is a good option.  They container ship comes direct to Vava’u . This means you can work with the local officials to clear you items into Tonga.  Again, no duties or taxes for Yacht in Transit. Getting this all set up is quite easy.

    Simple Process Really

    What do you need to take advantage of shipping Yacht in Transit?  When you arrive to Vava’u you have to submit for a Tax ID from the Ministry of Revenue.  This is a free process which identifies you and your vessel as Yacht in Transit.  Then when you get a package, you simply send the agent ( I recommend Linda in the FEDE office) your Tax ID number, a copy of your passport and a copy of your vessel registration and she will process the documents for you for about $50 TOP.  This fee is well worth it, hassle free.

    PRO TIP:  Ship items DHL or FEDEX to the freight forward in New Zealand, much less expensive that shipping DHL or FEDEX directly to Tonga.  Then have them put that on boat to Tonga.  You must address the package properly to avoid duties in New Zealand and of course stay for a while in Tonga.  Vava’u has many beautiful spots to check out while you wait!

  • Captian’s Update –

    By

    Scott Birdzell

    on

    March 20, 2025

    Neiafu Bay Vava’u, Kingdom of Tonga, 18 39.973 S / 173 58.919W

    Perhaps it is time for an update?  We are still in the Kingdom of Tonga, Vava’u to be precise.  In the last post we talked about how we came to our decision to stay here for cyclone season.  So far, this has turned out to be a good decision.  The weather has not  been perfect, knock on wood, we have not had even a near miss with a cyclone.  There has been one north and a few east, which is fine by me.  We have had our fair share of rain.  When I mean rain, well…they measure that in inches per hour around here.  It is incredible to see.  But on the bright side it keeps the water tanks full and the temperature down.  All this time has left with time for projects.

    It’s a new car!!

    Boats require a ton of maintenance and yes money to keep going.  We recently took delivery of our new car (dinghy).  The old one was simply not big enough for our needs and it was trashed.  So we ordered a new one for True Kit in New Zealand and shipped it by boat.  She might be a little to big for our needs, but I like her so far.  Time will tell if we made the right choice.  No time to dwell on that we have plenty to do.

    Fighting the Rust

    Last season our trusty dive compressor started showing some typical salt air wear and tear.  Last time Tami was I the US she brought back a rebuild kit for the Honda motor that powers the compressor.  So I recently started that rebuild.  She was full of rust and corrosion.  After a lot of cleaning, scraping and painting she is back in her glory, although I have not started it yet.  I was finally able to find the special oil the compressor takes (the oil has to be suitable for human breathing).  You guessed it, that came from New Zealand as well.  Starting to see a pattern here?  But in the end it will be worth it as we can get back to diving on our terms.

    Making Tartaruga work for us

    Top load box refrigeration has been a problem for us.  It means every time you cook, everything has to come out because for some reason what you need int eh frig is always at the bottom.  Starting to believe in the Gnoems our Mexican friends believe in, another story for another time.  So, like most men when Tami leaves, I feel compelled to tear something apart.  So I removed the box refrigerator and replaced it with two small commercial refrigerators.  I think the space inside is the same, but some are much easier to organize.  Over time, it has become clear that having two of them is not really necessary, so I will sell one to a local resort and save some deck space.  Additionally, the next thing is I will recess the entire unit into some worthless storage space.  This will open an area where we can build new storage that makes more sense.

    There has been a going toilet saga here on Tartaruga.  As you may remember our boat was built in France, then sold to an Italian guy who eventually sailed her to Tahiti.  So the toilet is fancy, electric with all the bells and whistles but I can not get parts for it.  To set the stage, we have only one head, so if it is down this means a bucket or dinghy into land and use a toilet there.  So after our boat yard time it stopped working, seized bearing.  So I order a new one, one that I could source parts all over the world.  This order was placed, air freight, October 31, 2024.  To make a very long story short I recently received that toilet, 4 months later.  A lesson on who not to do business with.  But the bigger issue for Tami and me is that we do not like to discharge our waste into the local waters.  So, we found a product called Electro Scan.  This is a treatment system that treats our yucky smelly stuff such that when it is discharged it is 99.999% free of any pathogens or things that can hurt the environment or people.  So soon a new pooper and cleaner, more on that later.

    More exciting toys

    There are many other things we have been working on.  We took delivery of a new sail from Rolly Task.  This is called a Cruising Code C, pictures to follow.  Painting is an going challenge, not the work but the getting the paint.  So, we will order that from New Zealand.  There has been some engine repairs, left over issues from the lighten strike we think.  Lots of little things.  But it is not all work.

    We have met some great people here in Tonga, after all they call it the friendly islands.  Some are “palangis” (white people) that have relocated here and of course the locals.  Most have been really great, you always have curmudgeons and we stay away from them.  It is law in Tonga that no one is to make business transactions on Sunday, a decree of the King.  This makes a great day for BBQ’s and hanging out with friends.  It is nice to feel like part of a community.  Until next time…

  • Discover why we chose Tonga for Cyclone Season

    By

    Scott Birdzell

    on

    Cyclone season is the time of year cruisers must be the most vigilant.  It is not safe to sail around in zones that are prone to having cyclones, hurricanes or typhoons.  So, what do we do?  There are many decisions to make depending on where you are in the world.  We are currently cruising in the South Pacific. Pretty much any place in the tropical zone, 10 to 30 degrees off the equator, can be a place that has cyclones.  Each year we must plan where we need to be November through the following May and work our cruising plan backwards from there. Here is how we came to choosing to stay in Vava’u Tonga for cyclone season.

    Cyclone Seaon in the Southern Hemisphere

    Cyclone Season lasts from November to the following May in the southern hemisphere.  It is exactly the opposite of hurricane season in the northern hemisphere, the danger to boats remains the same.  The conditions are also the same.  The water temperature must be at least 80F at the surface and down to about 150ft.  Of course you need a low pressure system around sea level.  Then there are some other factors like vertical wind shear, thunderstorms and continuous source of warm moist air.  With this knowledge one atmospheric event that I follow very closely is the location and strength of the Madden-Julian Oscillation (MJO).

    The Madden-Julian Oscillation

    The Madden-Julian Oscillation is a large scale disturbance.  It is a wave of energy that drives many of the factors that can produce a cyclone.  In fact, I have read that in nearly all case in French Polynesia the MJO was present during cyclones.  This system rotates the earth around the equator, every 30-60 days.  It drives warms moist air and produces violent thunderstorms and powerful low-pressure systems.  I use this DTN website to see the actual local of the MJO and the forecast for the next several weeks.  In particular I like this view as I can follow both the active and inactive regions and see the strength of the active phase.  The darker the green the strong the activity.  So with all that said how did we decide to stay on Vava’u Tonga for Cyclone season?

    This is an MJO forecast example.

    Challenging the history

    I did an analysis of the historical weather as well as what is available in Vava’u in terms of moorings, haul out facilities, etc.  First the weather.  I am a big user of Open CPN.  In fact after our last lightning strike we use Open CPN is our primary navigation system.  One of the plug-ins offered in Open CPN is climatology.  The plugin allows you to overlay various types of weather data of a specific place on the chart for a given period of time.  In this case, I wanted to see cyclones.  Here is what the cyclone tracks look like overlayed around Vava’u Tonga, without any filters.

    This is a historical view of cyclone paths from Fiji to Tonga starting 1949 to present

    I know what you are thinking, geez each of those lines are cyclones, are you crazy?  Well yes they are and the date range is from 1949 to present.  You might note that Vava’u seems to be in a bit of a pocket and if I filter on only La Nina – the map changes dramatically.  See below

    This is a view of cyclone paths, since 1949, that is filtered to only show during La Nina periods.

    There is one very important data point to understand about cyclones in the Southern Hemisphere, they name their storms at very low wind speeds – 34KN.  It is not until you reach CAT 3 here that the wind speeds match a CAT 1 in the US.  On this map, the light blue is 40kn and the green is 60.  Not even CAT 1.  If you remember, Tami and I sat through more than 60KN of wind at anchor in French Poly last year.  Does this mean there will not be a cyclone, NO!  What it means is in a La Nina year there are very few.  This is more than 70 years of data.  You can also see there are many more in Fiji and also a few red lines, more than 100KN of wind – not cool.  But more goes into it.

    Local facilities

    Here in Vava’u they have good facilities in the event we need to use them.  First, the Boat Yard Vava’u can haul our boat out if we choose to.  They have a way to secure the boat to the ground and we would take shelter in a local hotel or something like that.  They also offer hurricane safe moorings.  I have personally spoken to people that have been on the mooring in high winds, and they are more concerned about something hitting them that got loose in the harbor then they were about the mooring breaking.  The service these mooring often and in my view, they are well maintained.  As of this writing there are only a view boats that have selected to stay here, so I have no competition for moorings our being hauled out.  Whereas in Fiji, the yards are full, people pay to get a spot in the mangroves all of course based on availability and there are hundreds of boats – hundreds.

    The final factor, for cyclone season, is Sissy!  She can not be imported into Fiji. New Zealand is possible but would cost thousands of dollars.  Our Sissy girl is getting old, 14 years now, and a rough sail south might not be very good for her health.  Here in Tonga, she is imported and is free to go wherever we go on land.  The dogs are not too aggressive, so it works very well.  Another small factor is the locals speak English, so it makes you stay comfortable and our chances of participating in local festivals and activities increase. 

    Staying in Vava’u – Simply Amazing

    In the end, I do expect we will see some weather.  How strong, who knows.  We have more than 30 beautiful anchorages we can explore, with one eye on the MJO.  However, these anchorages are all within 20 miles of the main harbor.  This harbor found in 1781 by Spanish explorer Francisco Mourelle de la Rua.  He named it Puerto de Refugio – The Port of Refuge.  We have this paradise all to ourselves with a port sailors have used for safe harbor for more tahn 200 years.

    One final note, I am not a prefessional meteorligist. I am sailor that analysis what is avaialbe to me to make the safest decision for our vessel.

  • Captains Update – December 4, 2024

    By

    Scott Birdzell

    on

    The Boat Yard Vava’u, Kindgom of Tonga 18 64.467S 173 99.342E

    Well, it has been a minute and there is much to talk about. Shortly after our last update, we hauled out Tartaruga in the local boatyard here in Vava’u, Tonga after our beautiful stay in Nuiatoputapu. The list of items grew over the months since we purchased her, and of course, there are always surprises. Here’s the captains update.

    How do you get the boat out of the water?

    There are two primary machines that haul out boats like ours. The first type is called a travel lift, which is the machine used in Mexico. It uses two slings moved by powerful winches on each side of the boat. The other type is a trailer that is driven into the water, where very powerful hydraulic rams drive legs up to the hull of the boat. The operator has complete control of each leg and the height of the entire trailer. This is what they use here in Tonga. This is step 1 in the process of a haul-out.

    Work begins

    After the boat is secure on the trailer, they move it up the ramp with a large tractor. Upon reaching a designated area, they stop so that the hull can be pressure washed. This is typically a messy job but necessary to get a clear look at the hull. After about 2-3 hours, this job is done, and then they move the boat to the area where the work will be done.

    Tartaruga on the hard.

    Next comes placing the boat on the hard stand in the area the yard has determined to put her for the duration of our stay. This is a pretty straightforward process, where they place blocks of wood on the keels, level the boat fore and aft, and finally hold that level with adjustable stands. Tami and I chose to stay on the boat during our time on “the hard,” so this level is important.

    The list brings surprises

    The next surprise came: the antifouling paint, which protects the bottom of the boat from the elements of the sea, was quite literally falling off. We were not sure why this was happening. One thing is for sure—we cannot leave it this way, so it must be scraped off. This will take time, hand-scraping the entire bottom of a 45ft catamaran.

    Simultaneously, I was pulling the props to get a look at the real purpose we hauled the boat: our leaking propeller shaft seals. We had replacement seals onboard and hoped this would be an easy fix. Surprise number 2: the prop shafts were scored very badly. We had to either have the shafts resurfaced, which is not something that can be done locally, or we had to use a surface sleeve. We found a product called Speedi-Sleeve that allowed us to press this sleeve over the damaged area, thus leaving a perfect surface for the seals to mate to. The good news is these sleeves are available in New Zealand. The bad news is shipping a 2.2 lbs package from NZ would cost twice the amount of the sleeves themselves. No option here—we placed the order.

    The next piece of the puzzle was repainting our sugar scoops and applying a non-skid surface. The boat came with a foam-based fake teak that had its own adhesive, which of course didn’t hold well at all. We prefer a product called Awl Grip, but that was not available here in Tonga. What we could get was your basic white sand, which makes the surface kind of like a skateboard deck.

    To shorten the story a bit, as you must be as bored reading it as I am typing it, it took a month to bring all this together. The shipping of the Speedi-Sleeves from New Zealand took three weeks and 10 minutes to install. It took me two weeks to sand off the old layers of paint on the sugar scoops, but we fell short of having enough paint. So that project is maybe half done. The bottom of the boat took about three weeks to scrape, sand, and repaint. We found out during the process that the boat originally had Coppercoat but had been painted over—a big bummer.

    So it was back in the water, in the reverse order I described above. We still have a boatload (get it? “boatload”) of work to do. But at least we are in the water where the sea breeze is nice, and we are close to town. Now the toilet stopped working… It is always the crapper!

  • How we make money while Cruising Around the World

    By

    Scott Birdzell

    on

    a red line showing the cruising route of Sailing Yacht Tartauga

    We get asked this all the time. I think it’s partially because when people look at us, we are not exactly retirement age, so they are curious about how we fund our cruising. Most of the time, I jokingly tell them we are running from the law, and that’s all they need to know – haha (not true, by the way). But if you look around the internet, you’ll find many people wanting to cut the lines and try a different lifestyle. One full of adventure, challenge, travel, and perhaps much closer to nature. This is pretty much our life. We are not funded via a trust fund (I wish) nor did we win the lottery (second wish), or inherit money. We did, however, come to this lifestyle with some money and some skills. Here is how we make money while cruising around the world.

    The Source

    The primary way we make money is via the US Stock market. I know, it’s volatile, dangerous, a crapshoot at best. I get this a lot. Years ago, I searched for a solution to take some of the risk out because if you think about it, I just need access to the internet, and I can make money – in theory. A friend of mine on Red Rover shared with me a solution he found, so I looked into it. It is a group of investors, led by Pat and Lorin, called Wander Financial. I know there are lots of options out there for trading, but this one suited me.

    We ran into Pat and Ali from Wander Financial in Fakarava (June 2023)

    This fits around our life

    First, both Pat and Lorin live a lifestyle like we do. Pat travels with his family full-time, for like the last 20 years. Lorin is the same, although he primarily lives on land. I didn’t have to buy some proprietary software to join; this approach can be problematic with slow internet. Their process uses WhatsApp, chat rooms, and email to update the group on trade opportunities. These are things I can access quite easily from just about any device, so I am not tied down to my boat. The killer draw for me was they have a process to follow because, quite frankly, I didn’t know anything about trading. So, a process put together by people with decades of experience, that is easy to follow and, more importantly, works for me – am I making money.

    Wander Options Navigator

    This process I am referring to is called the Wander Options Navigator or WON for short. It goes something like this: Pat and Lorin have provided a list of stocks to review each day; consistency is key here. I run through this list every day at the same time. What I am looking for, via my Trading View Charts, is the presence of an indicator called, you guessed it, the WON indicator. This information, along with the other trends embedded into the chart, tells me whether to buy or not. Now, I can’t tell you everything because some of this is proprietary to Pat and Lorin, their life’s work. There are other details like how large the trades are, what platforms are used, how to mitigate risk in each trade, etc. Wander Financial provides all of this and tons of other educational articles and videos. But here is what matters most to me: does it make money for me? The answer is YES.

    Do we make money

    For Tami and me, we normally cover the average cost of cruising each month. How much is this for us? Between $3K-$4K USD. Often, very often, we actually add money to our savings account. Every so often, we have a big month, then we go to the boatyard – kidding (not really). Does it cost money to join? Yes. I find I pay for that very quickly. So much so that I have been with Wander Financial for nearly 4 years.

    This is our profit for September 2024 – $4,556.

    I could go on and on, but for sure, you are getting bored at this point, so let me wrap this up. Every day, over my morning coffee, I spend no more than an hour reviewing the list, making trades, and managing my risk. This is how I do it; the beauty is you have the freedom to build your own process around theirs. Is it fool proof? No! I had some issues starting out that, quite frankly, were mine. Not reading carefully, not knowing how the online tools worked, or frankly, not paying attention. In the end, I would not be recommending them if it wasn’t something we use and depend on. We wouldn’t recommend them if they were not real people, living like we do and having success. You are not going to be the next Warren Buffet; that is not the goal. The goal is to live life to the fullest and make some money so you can do that on your terms.

    Get Started Today

    Pat and Lorin have been kind enough to offer an incentive to take a leap of faith like I did. Use this referral, and you will get $200 off your first year! That’s a good deal, trust me.

    I know you have tons of questions; ask them below. Let me answer them as fully and transparently as I can below.

  • Exploring Samoa’s Hidden Waterfalls: A Sailing Adventure

    By

    Tami Birdzell

    on

    The author Tami at a waterfall

    Discovering Tranquility Amidst Cascades

    As sailors, we’re drawn to the open sea—the vast expanse where wind and water dance together. But sometimes, it’s the hidden gems on land that steal our hearts. On a recent voyage to Samoa, I veered away from the coastline and embarked on an exhilarating quest: to chase waterfalls. Yes, you read that right—waterfalls!

    Papapapai Waterfall: A Glimpse Across the Canyon

    Papapapai Waterfall

    Our journey began with Papapapai Waterfall. Picture this: we pulled our car over to the side of the road, and there it was—a cascade across a distant canyon. The water tumbled down, its allure irresistible. Yet, frustratingly, no clear path led us closer. But sometimes, the view from afar is just as enchanting.

    Togitogiga Waterfall: Nature’s Refreshing Oasis

    Togitogiga Waterfall

    Next up was Togitogiga—a local hotspot. After parking, a short walk led us to the falls. They weren’t the grandest we’d seen, but their cool embrace was a welcome respite. Imagine descending stone steps, surrounded by the symphony of water and the shade of ancient trees. It felt like nature’s own spa day.

    Falefa Waterfall: A Hidden Estuary Gem

    Falefa Waterfall

    Falefa beckoned us next. We paid our fee and descended a charming staircase, flanked by local flora. At the end of our descent lay an estuary, and there it was—the waterfall. Not a soul in sight; just us and the rushing water. As we left, we noticed—you could glimpse Falefa from the roadside. But trust me, the walk down was worth every step.

    Fuipisia Waterfall: Where Power Meets Beauty

    Fuipisia Waterfall

    Fuipisia—the grand dame of waterfalls. The entrance fee was steeper, but the experience matched it. The family welcomed us warmly and pointed the way. As we walked, we saw their investment—the wooden bridge, the benches, the promise of lush greenery. And then, we stood before the falls. Water plummeted from a stream above, its force palpable. Daredevils, lean over the ledge—the raw power will leave you breathless.

    5. Sopoaga Falls: A Symphony of Flowers

    Sopoaga Waterfall and garden

    Our final stop: Sopoaga Falls. The scent of flowers enveloped us as we approached. The property was a botanical wonderland—plants, trees, and blooms, each with its own informative sign. But the falls remained distant; no swimming here. Instead, we stepped onto a wooden deck, framed by nature’s canvas, and captured the moment in selfies.

    In Retrospect: Samoa’s Beauty Unveiled

    Samoa didn’t disappoint. These waterfalls—each unique—revealed a different facet of this island paradise. Some were for viewing only, like distant constellations. Others invited us to swim, to immerse ourselves in their magic. As I reflect on that lovely day, I understand why they call this place “Beautiful Samoa.” And just like sailing, it’s about the journey—the moments etched in memory, the beauty that leaves us awestruck.

  • Exploring Niuatoputapu: A Warm Welcome and a Feast to Remember

    By

    Tami Birdzell

    on

    While exploring Niuatoputapu we came across four Tongan children dressed traditionally for church
    Local children in their church attire.

    We decided to embark on a hike around Niuatoputapu, accompanied by our fellow sailboat friends. After securing our dinghies at the town dock with the help of local kids, we set off. Exploring Niuatoputapu through the hike took us all the way around the island, and despite the cloudy weather, it was perfect for an adventurous trek.

    Niuatoputapu

    On this island, feral pigs seem to outnumber the dogs. Alongside them, sheep, goats, chickens, cows, and horses all play their part in the island’s ecosystem. Everything here serves a purpose. Surprisingly, even though there are only around 800 people living on Niuatoputapu, they manage to have cars—though not every family owns one. The island covers 6.2 square miles, with its highest point reaching 515 feet above sea level.

    The local Tongans welcomed us with open arms, offering friendly waves and greetings of “Malo e Lelei.” The children were delightful, always saying “Hi” and “Bye” with infectious giggles. Approximately forty boats arrive here each year, and the ferry makes its monthly appearance, bringing essential supplies. The locals happily traded items with us, and we even managed to get fresh eggs from a lady who keeps chickens on the island.

    The Pig Roast

    During our walk, we stumbled upon a group of men turning pigs over a fire, while women bustled about preparing food. Tongan, the primary language, posed a challenge, but we navigated it with smiles. Then, a woman invited us to a roast at 3 pm—an annual feast that raises money for the church. We felt privileged to be included.

    Men roasting pigs on Nuiatoputapu
    The men roasting the pigs.

    After bidding our farewells, we discovered a local watering hole—a perfect spot to cool off. Stripping down, we plunged into the crystal-clear water. Fish of all sizes darted around, some even nibbling playfully. Refreshed from our swim, we returned to our dinghies to prepare for the feast.

    While exploring Niuatoputapu we found a fresh water spring
    Fresh water spring

    Following Tradition

    Dressed in our finest attire, the women wore Lava Lava—a wrap that tie around the waist and flows down to the ankles—paired with shirts. The men sported collared shirts, some also donning Lava Lava. As we arrived, the church service was wrapping up, allowing us to peek inside and listen to the beautiful singing.

    The local women guided us to a social hall, indicating where to sit. Music played, followed by a prayer, and then it was time to feast! The spread was impressive: individual salads, side dishes, seafood, and chicken—all leading up to the main attraction: the roasted pigs. The local women encouraged us to eat heartily, and their generosity extended to sending us home with leftovers. Throughout our travels, we’ve experienced many fascinating things, but being welcomed into this community stands out as one of our favorites. The warmth of the locals has truly touched our hearts. Kakai Faka’ofo’ofa—beautiful people indeed!

    This is Tui and her daughters.

  • Importing Your Dog or Cat to French Polynesia via Private Vessel

    By

    Tami Birdzell

    on

    Tessie Girl in Nuku Hiva

    Have you ever been told it’s impossible to import your dog or cat to French Polynesia via a private vessel (sailboat)? We’re here to tell you it is possible—we did it in 2022 with two dogs. So, grab a drink of your choice, get comfortable, and let us guide you through the process in the easiest way possible.

    The first thing you must understand is that details matter in this process. The most important thing to note is that you are taking your animal to French Polynesia, not France. Any information or experiences you had in France do not apply. We’ll provide examples of mistakes people have made throughout. Let’s get started.

    Step 1: Familiarize Yourself with Biosecurity Information

    The first thing you need to do is familiarize yourself with the information provided by the Biosecurity team in French Polynesia. You can find that information here. The requirements listed are not flexible at all. The official veterinarian is the law and will not bend just because you sailed across the Pacific. Please understand that there is no level of negotiation to be had. It is 100% compliance, or your pet stays on the boat the entire time you are in French Polynesia. If you plan to continue across the South Pacific, it is vital that the animals are imported and stay in French Polynesia for six months. That’s right—you will need a long-stay visa, which I will explain more about later.

    Step 2: Identification Chip

    Your animal needs the proper Identification Chip inserted. This chip needs to be ISO 11784 certified. It’s important to note that nothing about your animal matters until after this chip is installed, and everything that happens after the chip must be documented on the official records—everything. In 2019, the USA did not use the proper chip, so we had our chips installed in La Paz, Mexico. Not having the proper chip installed before you start the required tests and vaccinations is the number one reason pets are not accepted in French Polynesia. You should be issued a certification letter for the chip, which they will want to see when you arrive.

    Step 3: Rabies Vaccination

    A Rabies Vaccination is required between six months and 21 days before arrival. This is one that gets people in trouble. First, French Polynesia almost never accepts three-year rabies shots; they simply convert them to a one-year vaccination. So, if you are in year two of three, they will consider you out of compliance. You can’t get your titration test until at least 30 days after the rabies vaccination. We planned ours so we had the dogs vaccinated, then 31 days later, the blood was drawn for the titration test. The date of the last rabies vaccination will be part of the titration test application.

    Step 4: Rabies Titration Test

    The window for this test is no more than 12 months but not less than three months before you arrive. We recommend you get this test as soon as the window opens because there is a short list of laboratories French Polynesia will accept the results from. For us, we had the blood drawn in Mexico in August 2022. The certification of the test was delivered in September 2022. Our passage was in February 2023. If you are in Mexico, the Central Laboratory near Mexico City is an authorized lab for the titration test. We were in Chiapas and used a local veterinarian to draw the blood and facilitate the transportation and payments. If you are in Banderas Bay, Dr. Dunia can help with all the required tests and treatments. If you are in Panama, you can visit Dr. Sanda at Pet’s Inn.

    Step 5: Review Requirements and Contact Officials

    By this time, four to six months from departure, you should have reviewed all the requirements on the Biosecurity website. We recommend you contact the “Official Vet” as well as Biosecurity on Nuka Hiva if that is your landfall location. Be patient; they are terribly busy and sometimes do not respond immediately. It helps if you send your communications in French; we simply used Google Translate. They have form 211, the importation request, that needs to be filled out. We communicated directly with them every step we took. This way, they can tell if something is not acceptable. It is also especially important that you read the requirements carefully. Look for words like “between,” “less than,” “no more than,” etc.

    Step 6: Time-Sensitive Tests and Procedures

    When you are about one month from departure, you will need to conduct a series of tests and procedures that are time-sensitive. Although it may seem mundane, they will check when you arrive that you meet the stated requirements. If you don’t, this could trigger boat quarantine or denial of importation, at which time your animal will have to stay on board.

    At one month from departure, you will need to have a Leishmania test conducted. Pay close attention to the requirements as this test is only valid for a short period of time. It is also required that the test method be ELISA. In Mexico, this can only be done at a human lab; Dr. Dunia can facilitate. The test still needs to be valid when you arrive “for the inspection.” Additionally, at this time, you will need to have your animal treated for internal parasites, fleas, ticks, and Echinococcus. Don’t forget to have this documented on the official pet record (the records with the chip information on them). You are getting close—just a few more steps.

    Step 7: Final Treatments and Documentation

    At least 14 days before the first treatment and within four days of your departure, you need to have a second treatment of internal parasites, fleas, ticks, and Echinococcus. At this point, make sure you have completed everything within the required time limits. Ensure you have all the original documentation and make copies. You have sent all of this to Biosecurity in French Polynesia. Now it is time to go.

    You will be issued an International Zarpe from Panama or Mexico. The immigration team will not even care about this document when you arrive in French Polynesia, but Biosecurity will. The date they stamp as your departure is the date they will use to ensure you have met all the requirements. Have a great sail.

    Additional Tips:

    1. French Polynesia will want you to pay the import fees before you arrive. This was not the case when we crossed. We recommend getting some type of assurance they reviewed the documents, and everything is in order except for the live inspection of the animal and documents.
    2. The Official Vet has to inspect the animal. This person resides in Tahiti. Sometimes, if there are four or more boats that need animals checked in, they will travel to the Marquesas and check you in. Make sure you know these rules ahead of time as they seem very fluid.
    3. We found the dogs on some of the islands to be rather aggressive. The Marquesas were fine, but some places did not want the dogs in their village even though you have the permits. Most of the Tuamotus are great, although many of the beaches are crsuhed coral and tough on their paws. The Society Islands were the hardest place to walk our dogs—be careful.
    4. Now that you have completed the importation to French Polynesia, we are sad to report it only gets more difficult. It is vital that you are planning several countries ahead for your animals. If New Zealand is on your list, as of this writing in 2024, the only places you can export your animal to New Zealand from, are French Polynesia and Fiji. You always have the choice of showing up in NZ and putting your animal into quarantine for four to five weeks—VERY EXPENSIVE. Fiji requires your animal be in the exporting country for at least 6 months. Fiji no longer accepts animal imports via private yacht, so you have to fly them. We believe it is super critical for you to understand what happens after French Polynesia.
    5. Many of the countries after French Polynesia will accept a titration test up to 24 months old.
    6. We cannot stress enough that once you have the chip inserted every procedure performed on your animal must be documented properly on the official record.  This means the record with the chip number on them.  If you get vaccinations, the sticker with the lot number must be included.  We even went so far as to have the vet administer the flea and tick pill and document that.  At this point we have an English, French and Spanish version of their official records.

  • Captain’s Update – September 16, 2024

    By

    Scott Birdzell

    on

    On a mooring in Vava’u, Kingdom of Tonga – 18 66.032S 173 98.303W

    Departure

    We left Niuatoputapu on September 10, 2024, at the break of dawn. There were three monohulls and us on a southern passage to Vava’u. The forecast was for eastern winds at 15-20 knots with a mild swell of 2 meters at 7 seconds. They call it a forecast for a reason. Here is the captain’s update for our journey.

    After we exited the pass, we were met with rather nasty seas and the wind pretty much on par. We had to motor for a bit into the wind to clear the island so we could turn south and sail on. We set the first reef on the main and deployed the full genoa, making 7-8 knots of boat speed. Then a strange sight appeared as I gazed up to see how the trim looked on the mainsail.

    Some Excitement

    The mainsail had a huge pocket and was protruding through the stack pack. This is not normal! I went forward and noticed the reefing line was loose, a perfect explanation. So, I proceeded to tighten it, and wow, did it ever pull so easily. So easily, suddenly I had the end of the line in my hands. Damn it – the line broke. We quickly acted and installed the second reef. But this was not a long-term solution.

    Let’s Go

    We quickly found ourselves in the 4-5 knot range. We needed to be at a 6-knot average to make Vava’u by the next morning. So, we did something we have not done on Tartaruga – deployed a full mainsail. Problem solved, we were now making 8-10 knots and were working to slow the boat. This proved to be an exercise in futility. Then, of course, the wind decided to crank up to 25kn. Everything I tried seemed to speed the boat up. We decided that we would just ride this out.

    All through the night, I worked at trimming the mainsail and bleeding off some speed. Finally, at around 2 AM, I had some success – a steady 7-8 knots. This was plenty to meet our sail plan to arrive in Vava’u in the morning.

    Sissy Relaxes

    As dawn broke, we could easily see Vava’u. What a beautiful sight! I was very happy we made it without breaking anything else, including Tami and me. Sissy was none too happy, but as we entered the lee of the island, the winds dropped, the swell dropped, and so did Sissy for some much-needed sleep.

    In the end, we averaged 6.7 knots and arrived in 27 hours, beyond our former record. We stowed the sails and cranked up the motors to navigate the pass into the pass into the harbor, hoping to find a mooring as the anchoring is very deep in most locations.

    We were lucky as three boats passed us while we were entering the harbor. We found a mooring quite easily. Tami is an expert at grabbing the line and hooking us up. Just like that, we were done and ready for sleep. This is the location where we will spend cyclone season, the location we will haul the boat and get some much-needed repairs completed.

    The place we will get to know Tonga and its people – we can hardly wait.

  • Electrical Repairs – The chaos after the Lightning Strike

    By

    Scott Birdzell

    on

    Sailing catamaran in a lightning storm
    What’s wrong with this photo? Comment below

    The days following our lightning strike were a whirlwind of chaos, amazement, and significant frustration. When lightning strikes a sailing boat, it can affect everything from the standing rigging to the hull and, of course, anything electrical. This left us with a pressing need to assess what was still functioning. Would the motors work? Did we still have access to our charts and communication systems – all crucial for safety. Without delving into every minute detail, it quickly became apparent that our top priority was the electrical system, including the refrigerator.

    To Tahiti

    One of the primary reasons we chose Tartaruga was its simplicity, and the electrical system was no exception. Similar to RVs, Tartaruga is equipped with both a DC (direct current) and AC (alternating current) power system. Our 400 AMP/HR Battleborn batteries form the backbone of our system, as we strive to live off-grid as much as possible, relying on renewable energy rather than petroleum. The first task was a quick trip to Tahiti to replace the Inverter/Charger, which converts power from the batteries to AC and charges the batteries. This was a straightforward task but an expensive one in French Polynesia!

    Getting AC Power Back

    Fortunately, we knew exactly who to contact for an Inverter/Charger. I hopped on the ferry and headed to Marine Supplies. We reached out to them immediately, and they kindly reserved a unit that met our minimum requirements. Victron Energy is our preferred brand, so we secured a 2000-Watt Multi-Plus Compact. Although I would have preferred a 3000-Watt unit, it was unavailable. A lesson for aspiring cruisers: you take what you can get, and that’s the end of it. After a few more stops in Tahiti, I returned to the ferry terminal to install our new Inverter/Charger.

    The next morning, we received a call from a fellow cruiser we had met in Makemo a few months earlier. We had no idea he was a refrigeration technician back on land. He reassured us that the compressors were fine and that all we needed was the “black box” (brain box) to get everything running smoothly. As luck would have it, they were selling their boat and were happy to part with their spare black box. Another win! It worked, and our refrigerator, which was full of provisions, was back online. Now, we faced the more daunting task: the DC system.

    Now for the DC

    The DC system was nearly a total loss. From the battery cut-off switch onward, almost everything powered by our 12V DC system needed replacement. While this was disappointing, it also presented an opportunity! We could redesign the system to meet our needs and standards, drawing from decades of RVing experience and our time in boating and sailing to create the perfect system for Tartaruga. A totally clean slate.

    We began with distribution. I learned that while marine breaker panels are nice to have, the breakers themselves can be hard to find, and a new panel is outrageously expensive. The alternative is switches and fuses. This solution, along with marine fuse blocks, is far less expensive, easily replaceable, and allows for efficient power distribution, reducing the amount of wiring needed. We decided to purchase toggle switches and Blue Seas fuse blocks to distribute our 12V power. Of course, none of this was available in French Polynesia. Now what?

    Fortunately, Tami had a preplanned trip to the United States to visit family and friends. This trip now had a new purpose: she would be an international mule for all the parts we needed to fix the boat. This meant I had to get the order right the first time. So off she went with her backpack and several empty duffle bags, and I started placing orders on Amazon.

    Note: In a separate post I will dive solely into which products I choose and why. Then later we will review our choice and products to recommend any changes.