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If you’re looking for a unique and unforgettable experience in Samoa, visiting the giant clams should be at the top of your list. Nestled in the heart of the South Pacific, Samoa offers a stunning marine paradise where you can get up close and personal with these incredible creatures.
Visiting the Giant Clam Sanctuary is not just about the thrill of seeing these amazing creatures; it’s also an opportunity to learn about marine conservation. The sanctuary plays a crucial role in protecting the giant clams and their habitat, ensuring future generations can enjoy this natural wonder.
Swimming with the giant clams in Samoa is an experience you’ll never forget. It’s a chance to connect with nature, learn about marine life, and support conservation efforts. So, if you find yourself in Samoa, don’t miss out on this incredible adventure.
For this update we are departing Apia Samoa and sailing to Tonga. Before departure there is a fair bit of work we do, in preparation to sail in the open ocean.
Blue and Pink Jobs
We both have our own areas, Tami calls them “blue jobs” and “pink jobs.” In short, the blue jobs check and test every system on the boat and their redundant pieces. For example, we have two autopilot drive units, and both are checked for functionality. Particular attention is paid to known problems we have not yet been able to update. Tartaruga has two leaky seals on her sail drives (these are the same as outdrives on an inboard/outboard system.) This is letting salt water into the drive, but no lubricant is being emitted into the sea, more updates on this later. Everything was either good or fixed, so we are ready to go. Next comes check out.
Checking Out
Every time we leave a country we must check out. This typically means we stop by immigration for passport stamps, customs for our country clearance forms and the local port authority for any fees they might want to collect for, such as anchoring. It usually doesn’t take long to be honest, just part of traveling this way. Samoa is no exception and we powered through quickly just before departure.
Time to go
We left the harbor at around 1200hrs on August 28, 2024 for a planned 36-hour sail to Tonga. The first part of the journey had us in the lee of Samoa, so we really had no wind to speak of and had to use our motors. While the flat seas are always welcome, quite frankly we can sail much faster than we can motor. The motor boat adventure didn’t last long.
Once we passed in between the islands of Upolu and Savai’i, we found ourselves in the wind and we could cut the motors and set sail south to Tonga. The winds forecast was for 18kn from the east and for the most part it is what we sailed in. The swell was another matter. Although it was only 6ft-7ft, the peaks (we call the period) were only 6 seconds apart and smashing against the side of Tartaruga. We get regular updates on the weather and sea state both online and from our weather router. She handled it like a champ, delivering an average speed of 6kn for the 180nm trip. At one point the wind picked up suddenly to 24kn and she showed us 12kn of boat speed. We are getting better at tuning the sails on her. At this point our typical sailing speeds are at the very top of what Animal Cracker was delivering, under similar conditions – this is a good update. Just as the sun setting was setting on the 29th – land ho.
We made eye sight of a dormant volcano, Tafahi, about 25 miles away. We knew Tafahi was only about 4nm north of our destination, Nuiatoputapu Tonga. This also meant we would be arriving after dark. While entering a reef pass in the dark is not normally something we would ever attempt, we were prepared for this – at least on paper. We had tracks from our friends Warren and Erica, the YouTube super duo of WE Sail. Additionally, we knew from their entry that the lights were operational so in theory this made the night entry possible.
Night Entry
While most people might think this is a no brainer because they come from a country that has many channel marks and lights, that is not always the case. The idea is at the very far end of the pass is a set of range lights. On your chart there is typically a center line to the pass marked. So you approach the center line of the chart, via gps, and then align the two lights at the far end and voila you are pointed straight down the center of the pass. Well not so fast, as we approached, in the pitch black night, I was expecting the range lights to be white lights, we finally figured out they were red and not only red they are flashing red lights just like the lights that mark the port side of the reef! So we need to update our thinking.
After a couple circles at the entry I was able to see the difference in the red lights. The range lights were flashing much faster and the two appeared very close together. So we began, inching very slowly towards to pass. I’m at the helm using the lights and the tracks we have while Tami is inside watching the gps position of the boat on a premarked path. Slowly and carefully we approach a point we can no longer turn around, no room. We feel the seas calm, we know we are inside the reef pass. Meter by meter we move forward, Tami calling out our alignment via GPS and I watching the lights. Finally we make it to the last channel mark – we made it.
At this point we make a quick turn and head for the anchoring location, again under the cloak of darkness. We find an open space, at a good depth, and set the anchor. Perfect, it sets the first try. We set our anchor alarms that will alert us if the boat drags. We made it, not something we want to make a habit of but it is good to know we can work together and get the job done. At least it wasn’t raining.
Papapapaita Fall – click the image for more details
For this update, we are still in Apia Samoa exploring and waiting for just the right weather window to proceed to Tonga. We have been enjoying access to a car, thanks to Arthur, to see the sites all around the island – waterfalls, caves, trenches, and more. Soon our focus will turn to preparation for departure, and there is much to do on that front. That is in the future, we try hard to be in the present, so I thought it was a good time to learn a little more about Samoa. I spent some time reading about the history of this amazing place. Here is what I learned.
The Quick History of Samoa
Samoa is a beautiful group of islands in the South Pacific with a history that’s as colorful as its scenery. People first settled here around 3,500 years ago, coming from places like Tonga and Fiji. These early settlers were amazing navigators and boatbuilders, and they created a culture that’s deeply connected to the ocean.
Early Settlements and Culture
The first people to live in Samoa arrived between 2,900 and 3,500 years ago. They brought with them their skills in farming and sailing. Samoan society was all about village life, with chiefs (called matai) leading the way. They grew crops like yams, taro, breadfruit, bananas, sugarcane, and coconuts. This early history of the region is fascinating.
European Contact and Colonization
European explorers showed up in the early 1700s. In 1768, a French explorer named Louis-Antoine de Bougainville called the islands the Navigator Islands. Missionaries came in the 1800s and introduced Christianity, which changed a lot of things. Eventually, foreign powers started fighting over the islands, and they were split into German Samoa and American Samoa in the late 1800s.
Path to Independence
After World War I, New Zealand took over what used to be German Samoa and called it the Western Samoa Trust Territory. Samoa became the first Pacific Island nation to gain independence in 1962, and in 1997, it was renamed simply “Samoa.” Today, Samoa is a proud and independent country with a rich cultural heritage and a unique history.
Modern Samoa
Today, Samoa is a mix of old traditions and modern influences. The people still celebrate their culture with traditional ceremonies, dance, and music. If you visit Samoa, you can explore historical sites, enjoy the natural beauty, and experience the warm hospitality of the locals. We think understanding a locations history is essential to fully appreciate its modern-day marvels.
Final Thoughts
The Samoan people are truly wonderful. We had the opportunity to experience this many times in both American Samoa and Samoa. Whether it was a friendly conversation on the bus, directions, a ride to a trailhead, or help with a flat tire – always friendly – always interested – always smiling. We also learned that you are six times more likely to play in the NFL if you are Samoan! In American Samoa, they have the highest military enlistment rate, per capita, than any other state or US territory!
During our travels we always say the “people make the place.” This is exactly what happened in Samoa. We had rented a car from a local friend here in Samoa, Arthur. The first time we met him was in American Samoa. Lovely man with a quick smile and always a story to tell, embodying the warm local hospitality of the region. We decided to head out and explore with a couple of our friends. Driving on the right side of the road, and car, was an adventure! We visited waterfalls, swam in a sink hole (ocean trench), did a coastal lava flow hike, and had street food with locals. Once we left To Sua Ocean Trench we decided to go all the way around the island.
The long way
It was like driving through the country. We dodged dogs, people, and wild pigs. We had just come around the far eastern corner of the island when the car began to vibrate. Scott found a place to pull over and I hopped out to check the tires. Sure enough, the right-side front tire was flat. Now the adventure begins……
We found the spare tire underneath the vehicle and found all the gear to change the tire. The guys began to loosen the lug nuts, and realized the tool was damaged. We were worried that this process would strip the lug nuts. We were able to loosen all the lug nuts except for one temperamental one. Suddenly a local appeared to help.
Here comes the calvary
This local man called a friend, and he appeared to help too, we will call him Bob. Bob left and came back with multiple lug wrenches, all of which did not fit. Of course, when things like this happen the mobile service is spotty. My phone only had 3G plus one bar. Our friend Jan fared a bit better, so we called Arthur to let him know of our predicament. He wanted to know our location, hmm not sure. Bob, who spoke very little english, was able to talk to Arthur in their native Samoan language. Once back on the phone Arthur told us not to worry, that local people will take care of us.
Scott left with Bob in his truck and returned with yet another Samoan. His name was Chief Jared, yes he is the chief of this island village! They would not let our guys help. They made many trips to various homes to find this precarious lug wrench too, one that fit. Finally, they found the right socket and were able to get the tire free. The spare had seen better days but was better than the other alternative.
Fa’a Samoa – The Samoan Way
Chief Jared was worried about the spare and wanted to call us on our way to make sure we made it back to Apia, about 30 miles. If we had any problems, Chief Jared would pick us up. The sun had set by now, but now it was time for the next adventure. Driving on a donut spare, at night on the other side of the car and road. During our drive the phone rang from both Arthur and Chief Jared to see how we were doing. The generosity of the villagers is unparallel. When Scott went with Bob he asked where he was from. After some small talk Bob said to Scott, “who knew my Samoan life would cross paths with your American life today.” Turns out Bob is actaully Uncel Bob, Chief Jared’s uncle – Matagofie pei!! Beautiful life.
Everywhere we stop there are local businesses that tend to be more helpful to us than others. We don’t live in a house, so we need some unique items to keep us going. When your cruising takes you to America Samoa, and it should, these are some places we recommend you check out. In addition to these businesses, don’t miss the top sites in America Samoa for a complete experience.
Boat Stuff
Mee Won Commercial Fishing Store – If you’re looking for something for your boat, we recommend going to Mee Won. If they do not have it, they will know who might. From Pago Pago, take the bus to “Leone.” Tell the bus driver where you are going, the first time, because by the time you see the sign they will be passing it.
Niel’s Ace Hardware – This is a local home hardware store just like ACE all over the world. They have a ton of stuff there but what we found interesting was plumbing, electrical (wire), cleaning supplies, oils, and stainless items. Most of the time when Mee Won doesn’t have it, they will send you to Ace. Take the local bus to “Leone” go past Mee Won, you can’t miss it on the right.
Car Quest – This is an American brand auto parts store. They are also a Caterpillar dealer, so you can get a fair amount of diesel parts there. We found this to be the best place to get marine batteries as well. Mee Won has a Chinese brand of batteries. Honestly, I have never owned that brand, so I can’t say good or bad. Take the local bus to “Tafuna” and get off at the second traffic circle and turn left.
Local Activities and Hikes
Tisa’s Bare Foot Bar – Every Wednesday Tisa hosts a traditional meal cooked in a Umu, right onsite. You need to make a reservation ahead of time and the cost, at the time, was $65 USD per person and well worth it. Additionally, if you are looking for a place to swim, snorkel and/or hang out on a beautiful beach, Tisa’s can accommodate this as well. Super cool place with an awesome vibe.
National Park of America Samoa – Did you know that this is the most southern National Park in the US National Park system? If you are in America Samoa, you need to stop by and check out some of the sites. To ensure you spend your time wisely, we recommend visiting the National Park Visitor Center, located in Pago Pago. The wonderful young ladies who work there can help you plan your trip.
NOAA America Samoa Observatory – We did not make it to this spot. However, we spoke with many people that did. The short story is the NOAA has four of these incredibly special observatories and one of them is on America Samoa. You must make an appointment for the tour, but we hear it is worth it.
Blunts Point Battery – We love hiking, this is one that is walking distance from the anchorage. If you find the laundry mat, the trail head is just behind it on the left. Once on the top of the ridge you will find old WW II gun placements.
America Samoa Cable Car Memorial – America Samoa had an incredibly unique feature in the 60s and 70s- a cable car that stretched all the way across the harbor. However, in 1980 there was a terrible accident. This short hike takes you to the lower end of the cable car and represents a good way to stretch your legs as it is a steep, but short, climb to the memorial.
Tauese PF Sunia Ocean Center – This is a great stop to learn all about the ocean and its conservation around America Samoa. They offer displays and on certain days of the week they show films inside a super cool auditorium. This is a short walk from the anchorage and a nice way to spend some time inside when it rains. Did we mention it rains a lot in Pago Pago?
America Samoa Public Buses – This the best and most entertaining way to get around America Samoa. For $1, sometimes a little more depending on the distance, you can get anywhere on the island. Most of the places we have mentioned here you will take the “Tufuna” or “Leone” bus. But there is also a “Seahawks” bus that will take you to the furthest point west. If you are not sure, just ask. Pro tip, the names on the front of the buses are the villages they are going too which you can look up on Google Maps. Or Samoan’s are super freindly and happy to help you find your way – so ask someone. We met some really amazing people on our bus rides – you will too.
Sadies Thompson Inn – Straight acros the street from the marina is this little gem. They have a full bar with a pool table! Also on site is the fanciest restaurant on island, check out their menu, you will see what we mean.
Two Dollar Beach – This is another great place to hang out when the sun is shining and you need to get wet.
Provisioning
Cost U Less– This place is amazing, a site for soar eyes that have had a tough time provisioning. Cost U Less is a small version of Costco, a US brand warehouse style retail store. “Buy in Bulk and Save.” You can be the judge of that. However, we do recommend that you know the Bio Security requirements of the countries you will make landfall not too much further down the road. We would hate to hear you had all your pork chops confiscated. Take the local bus to “Tafuna” and stay on it for a while.
TSM Mart – The Commander of Tartaruga deemed this place the best place in Samoa to get perishables. It also has an excellent selection of grocery items, make sure you take your bags. Easy enough to get there, just take the local bus to “Tafuna.” Just past the first traffic circle you will see it on your right.
Shipping
United States Post Office Pago Pago – Next to provisioning most cruisers come to America Samoa because they need somethng shipped from the US. As the Soggy Paws compendium points out the US Post Office in America Samoa recevies US Priority shipments rather quickly. However, there is a caveat to that. As per local employees, if during the sorting process at a postal facility, the machine thinks there is a lithium battery or “could” be a lithium battery then the package is removed from air travel and put in a container. That means shipping by boat and it takes two months – or MORE. You will not know this has happened because this information is not in tracking, but the local US Post office can see it in their system. Here is our advice. If you’re buying electronics ship it to a freind in the US. Then have them take the item to a place that can ship US Priority Mail directly to you, in Pago Pago. The difference here is that Amazon doesn’t describe what is in the package, however a person will have too becase the package is being shipped “apo/fpo”. We did this once and our package arrived very quickly, actually faster than any Amazon package.
Tartaruga and her crew are nestled in a Apia harbor, shielded from the relentless swell of the Pacific Ocean and the trade winds that guide our journey. We’ve experienced a few days of gusty winds, reaching up to 25 knots at times. This isn’t much different from American Samoa, except here we experience very little fetch.
Yesterday, we reconnected with a friend we met in American Samoa many weeks ago, Arthur. What a great guy! He generously offered us the use of one of his cars while we’re in Samoa. To be legal, I had to get a temporary permit to drive here. It wasn’t a big deal – just 10 minutes and 21 Tala (about $8 USD). This opens up the entire island to us, but there’s one small hurdle we had to tackle.
In Samoa, they drive on the left side of the road. You can’t call it the wrong side because they believe the right side is wrong. Interestingly, they used to drive on the right side until about 10 years ago. So, there are both left and right-hand drive cars here, and ours is left-hand drive. Another interesting aspect is that some cars are Japanese with the turn signal on the right side of the wheel, while others have it swapped. As a result, you often see windshield wipers running in the turn lane – whoops, another tourist! The traffic circles go clockwise, and I have to reach over my right shoulder for the seatbelt. Not to mention, you have to turn your head left to see the rearview mirror! So far, so good – no wrecks. Keep your fingers crossed for us!
